Subaru 21067GA050 Ball Joint Complete

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Inspect the control arm balljoints for looseness whenever they are separated from the control arm by attempting to turn the ballstud in its socket with your fingers; if the balljoint is loose or the ballstud can be turned, replace the balljoint. To check the balljoints with the suspension assembled, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Clean each balljoint and inspect the seal for cuts and tears; if the seal is damaged, it can be replaced, but replacing the balljoint is advisable. Use a large prybar under the balljoint resting on the wheel to pry it up while feeling for movement between the balljoint and steering knuckle, then pry between the control arm and steering knuckle to check for movement; any evident movement indicates a worn balljoint that should be replaced. Have an assistant grasp the tire at the top and bottom, moving the top in-and-out to check for looseness in the balljoint stud castellated nut; any looseness suggests a worn balljoint stud or a widened hole in the control arm, necessitating replacement of both the control arm and balljoint if the latter issue exists. To replace the balljoint, loosen the wheel lug nuts, block the rear wheels, raise the front of the vehicle, and place it on jackstands before removing the front wheel. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut on the ballstud without removing it. Separate the control arm from the balljoint using a two-jaw puller, balljoint separator, or pickle fork tool; note that using a pickle fork may damage the balljoint boot, which is acceptable since the balljoint is being replaced. Remove the balljoint pinch bolt from the steering knuckle, use a large screwdriver to pry open the slot in the steering knuckle, then install the castle nut onto the end of the ballstud to pull the balljoint out of the knuckle. Install the new balljoint into the knuckle and tighten the pinch bolt to the specified torque. Finally, reattach the control arm to the balljoint and tighten the castle nut to the specified torque, installing a new cotter pin.

Inspect the control arm balljoints for looseness whenever they are separated from the control arm by attempting to turn the ballstud in its socket with your fingers; if the balljoint is loose or the ballstud can be turned, replace the balljoint. To check the balljoints with the suspension assembled, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Clean each balljoint and inspect the seal for cuts and tears; if the seal is damaged, it can be replaced, but replacing the balljoint is advisable. Use a large prybar under the balljoint resting on the wheel to pry it up while feeling for movement between the balljoint and steering knuckle, then pry between the control arm and steering knuckle to check for movement; any evident movement indicates a worn balljoint that should be replaced. Have an assistant grasp the tire at the top and bottom, moving the top in-and-out to check for looseness in the balljoint stud castellated nut; any looseness suggests a worn balljoint stud or a widened hole in the control arm, necessitating replacement of both the control arm and balljoint if the latter issue exists. To replace the balljoint, loosen the wheel lug nuts, block the rear wheels, raise the front of the vehicle, and place it on jackstands before removing the front wheel. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut on the ballstud without removing it. Separate the control arm from the balljoint using a two-jaw puller, balljoint separator, or pickle fork tool; note that using a pickle fork may damage the balljoint boot, which is acceptable since the balljoint is being replaced. Remove the balljoint pinch bolt from the steering knuckle, use a large screwdriver to pry open the slot in the steering knuckle, then install the castle nut onto the end of the ballstud to pull the balljoint out of the knuckle. Install the new balljoint into the knuckle and tighten the pinch bolt to the specified torque. Finally, reattach the control arm to the balljoint and tighten the castle nut to the specified torque, installing a new cotter pin.

A large prybar should be placed under the ball joint and resting on the wheel, then the ball joint should be pried up and down while feeling for movement.

An assistant should grasp the tire at the top and bottom and move the top of the tire in and out to check for looseness in the ball joint stud castellated nut.